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- 1st Oct 2026
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Restaurant Biedronka review: Polish heritage meets the British countryside at South Causey Inn
The North East has no shortage of brilliant tasting menus, and Restaurant Biedronka adds a distinctly different voice to the mix.
Opening on October 1st at The Farmhouse, South Causey Inn in County Durham, it is the first restaurant from chef Marek Dziedzic, and it brings together seasonal British produce and the food traditions of Poland. The name means ladybird in Polish.
A very grand Polish home
The Farmhouse is a lovely setting for it. It is cosy and homely, and you feel as though you could be walking into a very grand Polish home.
A big farmhouse table sits in the centre of the dining room, and it is here that the chefs prepare the snacks, so the evening begins with the team right in front of you.
From Poland to the North East
The story behind it is just as personal. Marek was born near Kościan, not far from Poznań, and grew up in Puszczykowo in western Poland before moving to London in 2012.
His career has taken him through kitchens in London and Manchester, including The Stafford Hotel in Mayfair, Café Football, Hotel Football and Green & Fortune, and he was part of the opening team at Neptune in London. It was there he met Swedish chef Alex Nietosvuori, and in 2019 the two were reunited in Northumberland for the opening of Restaurant Hjem.
Marek went on to become head chef as Hjem became the first restaurant in the county to be awarded a Michelin star. When Hjem held a temporary residency at The Farmhouse earlier this year, he got to know the space where Biedronka would eventually take shape. Having called the North East home for the past seven years, he says: “I want to bring my heritage from the Polish countryside to the British countryside.”
A menu unlike any other
That ambition shows on the menu, and this is my favourite and most important piece of feedback: it is different. The portions are generous, the food is excellent and every dish comes with a story behind it.
Dumplings sit at the heart of it all. You build your own four, five or six-course meal from snacks, starters, dumplings, seafood, meat and desserts, or go for the seven-course chef’s selection. Dishes on the opening menu include Poznańska Pyza, a steamed dumpling filled with braised duck leg, and Rosół, a traditional chicken broth with handmade noodles that Marek remembers eating on Sundays and family celebration days in Poland.
Dumplings even make it to dessert, with plum-filled Knedle served with crème fraîche and vanilla sugar. Or, try the fresh-from-the-oven chocolate soufflé with sour cream ice cream. As Marek puts it, Polish and British food have more in common than people might imagine, with plenty of slow cooking, braising and deep flavours in both.
The stand-out dishes
The Pierogi Ruskie dumplings were, without a doubt, my stand-out dish. On paper they sound simple: potato, farmer’s cheese and brown butter. But when I spoke to Marek, he explained just how labour intensive they are for the kitchen, and they are so worth it.
The beef pastrami was another highlight, with all of my favourite things in one dish: beef rump, cavolo nero, anchovy, Parmesan and breadcrumbs.
Local, foraged and preserved
Ingredients are sourced locally where possible. The rhubarb in the sorbet was foraged from South Causey and Marek’s own garden, the butter comes from North Acomb Dairy and the pickles are preserved by the chefs themselves.
The wine list is interesting too, it’s quite small and very well curated, with bottles from traditionally unrepresented regions such as Slovenia which are interesting to try (and fantastic wines).
Vegetarian and vegan diners are catered for alongside other dietary requirements.
Good vibes and a passionate chef
The atmosphere is feel good and a lot of fun. It is not stuffy in the slightest, and the playlist is one you would not find in many fine dining restaurants. Expect The Cure, Toploader and The Rolling Stones on the feel-good playlist. That relaxed spirit is exactly what Marek is after. “You can serve really good food and be very professional without the experience ever becoming stuffy or pretentious,” he says.
He is incredibly passionate, friendly and determined to give every guest an excellent experience. He is very hands on, happy to talk you through the stories behind the dishes and just as attentive as the rest of the team.
Backing new talent
It is also great to see a venue backing new talent. Susan Moiser, owner of South Causey Inn, says the team is delighted to work alongside “a team of young, exceptionally talented chefs” and to give them the space and platform to develop their own vision. On the strength of this, that faith is well placed.
The verdict:
Go.
Quick facts
Where: The Farmhouse, South Causey Inn, County Durham
Opens: 1st October 2026
When: Two dinner sittings Wednesday to Saturday, plus Saturday and Sunday lunch
Price: Four courses £65, five courses £75, six courses £85, seven-course chef’s selection £95
Dietary: Vegetarian, vegan and other dietary requirements catered for
IMAGE CREDITS: Sean Elliott Photography
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